Africa’s most misunderstood country?

Though under-the-radar, Sudan's cultural treasures are incredibly valuable (Credit: Antonelli Maria Laura/AGF/UIG/Getty)

Antonelli Maria Laura/AGF/UIG/Getty Though under-the-radar, Sudan's cultural treasures are incredibly valuable (Credit: Antonelli Maria Laura/AGF/UIG/Getty) — Though under-the-radar, Sudan's cultural treasures are incredibly valuable (Credit: Antonelli Maria Laura/AGF/UIG/Getty)

Benjamin Zand spent a week in Sudan – a country long-ravaged by terrorism and civil war – to uncover the timeless beauty and rich humanity beneath its fraught exterior.

A side of Sudan that's rarely seen (Credit: Arterra/Getty)

Arterra/Getty A side of Sudan that's rarely seen (Credit: Arterra/Getty) — A side of Sudan that's rarely seen (Credit: Arterra/Getty)

For travellers, Sudan’s secret treasures are captivating. From discovering what it’s like to sleep outside in the desert to observing how Sudanese youth are evoking national pride through poetry, BBC reporter and documentary filmmaker Benjamin Zand uncovers a side of Sudan that’s seldom seen, in this three-part series.

From my experience, the misconceptions about Sudan couldn’t be more off the mark. – Benjamin Zand

Part 1:

The ancient city of Naga’a once served as a stronghold of the Kushite Kingdom. Although it dates back to the 4th Century BC, several of its structures, like the Amun and Apedemak temples, have withstood the test of time.

Zand explores the ruins of the ancient city’s virtually unprotected temples.

Sun setting on Sudanese pyramids (Credit: imageBROKER/Alamy)

imageBROKER/Alamy Sun setting on Sudanese pyramids (Credit: imageBROKER/Alamy) — Sun setting on Sudanese pyramids (Credit: imageBROKER/Alamy)

As the sky grows dark, Zand and his group stop for the evening. After enjoying a meal of sheya (Sudanese-style barbecue), they prepare to call it a night. Many Sudanese choose to sleep outside, where the sunrise acts as a natural alarm clock.

Why do the Sudanese choose to sleep outside? The answer is rooted in practicality.

The next morning, Zand and his fellow travellers head to the ancient city of Meroë. Once a wealthy Kushite metropolis on the east bank of the Nile, Meroë is now a Unesco World Heritage site marked by more than 200 pyramids dating back to the 3rd Century BC. Today, these pyramids see only 15,000 visitors a year, a tiny amount compared to the millions their famed Egyptian cousins receive.

These Sudanese pyramids are virtually unknown, and visitors often have them to themselves.

Part 2:

The fierce cultural pride of the Sudanese youths, who make up a significant portion of the population, is going a long way towards bringing Sudan into the limelight. In the midst of tackling divisive issues of Arab and African identity, these young people define what it means to be Sudanese by using a surprising medium: poetry.

I need people to recognize this country. I need this country to be better. I’m willing to put my life on the line for it. – Mazin M. Saeed, Nas With Notepads

Zand tries his hand at engaging with slam poetry among the young Sudanese poets.

Carl De Souza/Stringer/Getty (Credit: Carl De Souza/Stringer/Getty) — (Credit: Carl De Souza/Stringer/Getty)

Part 3:

For the Sudanese, pride in their culture is nothing new. It can also be seen in the tradition of Nuba wrestling, which has been practiced for over 3,000 years.

This ancient sport used to be reserved for warriors; today, it is for important events.

Sudan's history is often overlooked (Credit: Robbie Shone/Getty)

Robbie Shone/Getty Sudan's history is often overlooked (Credit: Robbie Shone/Getty) — Sudan's history is often overlooked (Credit: Robbie Shone/Getty)

The histories and stories Sudan holds are things you don’t hear about too often. But when you see them for yourself, they’re something you’ll remember forever. – Benjamin Zand

Adventure

Desert