Chef warns of hospitality 'gamble' at mobile event

Katy Lewis/BBC Smiling chef Tom Kerridge wearing a white T-shirt and sitting down on a brown padded armchairKaty Lewis/BBC
Chef Tom Kerridge has brought his Pub in the Park event to St Albans

A top chef has warned it is "quite a gamble" to open a new hospitality venture at the moment, as he brings his mobile pub to a city.

Tom Kerridge’s Pub in the Park event in St Albans combines food and drink with music and entertainment.

He said his events promote the hospitality industry which is currently "struggling".

A Save St Albans Pubs spokesman said he welcomed any event that increases footfall in the central area and he would also still encourage people to open pubs in the city if they can "adapt".

Pub in the Park Chef Tom Kerridge wearing a light grey T-shirt and darker grey flat cap, holding a microphone in front of a sign saying Pub in the Park in St AlbansPub in the Park
Kerridge said he loves bringing his event to St Albans because "we get made to feel so welcome" and "it’s got a really lovely demographic"

The Hertfordshire cathedral city has been known for its hostelries for hundreds of years.

They were established when it used to be a day’s ride from London on the old stage coach route to Holyhead, now the A5, and not that long ago that it boasted more pubs in the city per square mile than anywhere else in the country. One of these is the Fighting Cocks which is often claimed to be the oldest inhabited pub in England.

But Kerridge, whose businesses include three pubs and a private dining room in Marlow, Buckinghamshire, said it is "very, very difficult" in the industry at the moment as "all costs across the board have gone up".

He said that even though he has built a 20-year reputation and has the infrastructure, "none of our businesses this year will be making a profit".

Pub in the Park Chef Tom Kerridge in a marquee wearing a white T-shirt standing in front of a crowd watching him demonstrate a recipePub in the Park
Kerridge said in times when people are "guarded with their cash" they "want to spend it on something where they know they'll have a good time and his events "kind of take the daily grind of it away"

"I think the idea of opening now, attracting the customers and making sure that those customers are repeat, would be very, very hard," he said.

"Right now, if you’ve got the capital expenditure behind you there are a lot of good deals to be had, a lot of brewery companies are looking for people to take on their sites and there will be a lot of opportunities for growth if you can get through the next couple of years.

“But there are a lot of pitfalls, there are issues with food inflation, with utility bills, with staff levels and staff costs.

"If you haven’t [got money behind you] then no, I think it would be more of a gamble opening somewhere now if you haven’t got the finances to get through the next couple of years."

The Mermaid John Cusworth [left] in a royal blue T-shirt and Mark Powell [right] in a navy blue T-shirt holding a black-framed certificate for a bronze award in the South Herts Campaign for Real Ale Pub of the Year competition 2023 The Mermaid
John Cusworth [left] and business partner Mark Powell said they have survived by adapting to change

John Cusworth, one of the landlords of The Mermaid in St Albans, is also a member of Save St Albans Pubs which represents landlords in the city.

He would still encourage people to enter the industry but does feel it has turned into a "younger person’s game".

"Me and my business partner are 50 which isn’t young to most people but it is in the pub world I think," he said.

"The pubs that are struggling, apart from being in a difficult location, are probably run by people who are a little tired and when it comes to having to adapt they are not able to or haven’t got it in them.

"We’ve changed, the old term for what our pub used to be was spit and sawdust but while we still have that old fashioned appeal, hidden beneath that are some fresher ideas, observing what’s going on and getting those products in.

"People do drink a little less these days on average but it’s the social aspect, the community aspect which is still thriving. So if you pick the right location, like St Albans, which has a great pub culture I’d encourage it."

The Mermaid The outside front view of The Mermaid pub in St Albans, Hertfordshire with some wooden tables and umbrella's outsideThe Mermaid
The Mermaid on Hatfield Road adapted during Covid and turned a large part of its car park into a garden where it still hosts live music

Kerridge said he champions local establishments at his event.

"This is really important to try to make sure that we’re fully integrated and supportive of the community," he said.

"There are nationally recognised restaurants there but also it’s got lots of local foodies, lots of local restaurants.

"It’s a community-led place that embraces entrepreneurial spirit particularly in the world of hospitality, and it also means it’s a place where people love going out, and from the first year that we did it, St Albans always brings the party."

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