How to experience the real Honolulu, according to a local lei maker
Meleana Estes has been called the "curator of modern aloha". Here are her picks for Honolulu's best cultural experiences, from haunted lookouts to aloha shirt shopping.
Hawai'i's turquoise waters and sandy beaches beckon travellers from all over the world, but a stop in the capital city of Honolulu – often a layover for visitors venturing to other Hawaiian islands – has so much more to offer than just a quick dip at Waikiki Beach or paying respects at Pearl Harbor.
Located on the island of Oahu, Honolulu has more than 20 diverse neighbourhoods, spanning beachfront Kahala and lush Mānoa to historic, commercial and retail districts like Ala Moana, Chinatown and Kaka'ako. But wherever you find yourself, a friendly smile, the scent of fresh flowers and a general feeling of warmth serves as a greeting. In the islands, it's known as aloha – a meaningful gesture or sense of being that represents connection and compassion for the community and loved ones.
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Hawaiian lei expert and stylist Meleana Estes was born and raised in the Hawaiian Islands. She credits her tūtū (grandmother) for teaching her everything she knows about lei making, which inspired her book, Lei Aloha: Celebrating the Vibrant Flowers and Lei of Hawai'i. She is also the founder of HIE, a collection of bracelets honouring the tradition of Hawaiian heirloom jewellery.
We asked lei maker Meleana Estes how – and where – to find aloha in Honolulu. "Beyond its legendary beaches, Oahu offers a vibrant mix of activities, whether historic sites and museums, rural farms, urban life and iconic local restaurants," says Estes, who was born on Kauai, but has called Oahu home for many years.
The granddaughter of beloved Native Hawaiian renaissance lei maker Amelia Ana Kā'opua Bailey, Estes has created a lifestyle brand marrying Hawaiian traditions and modern aesthetic. It celebrates what makes Hawai'i unique – or "modern aloha" – so her inclination to explore Honolulu has the city's unique culture at the forefront.
"Hawaiian culture is more than an aesthetic or channel for inspiration – it's more than I can put into words," says Estes. "Hawaiian culture blends ingenuity, humility, pride and passion, and I am grateful to have lived here my whole life, raised in this culture that has taught me everything I know."
From modern aloha to ancient practices, Here are Estes' favourite cultural experiences in Honolulu.
Alamy1. Best for understanding the past: 'Iolani Palace
For Estes, understanding Hawai'i's nuanced past is critical for anyone visiting this tropical paradise.
"We did not choose to become a part of the US – it was an illegal overthrow," says Estes. "And similar to a lot of smaller nations being acquired by Western powers, it has not necessarily resulted in the best way for Hawaiian people. Most visitors do not actually know this fact about Hawai'i."
Travel tip:
Hawai'i welcomes millions of tourists each year, and while this helps bolster the economy, overtourism is a very real problem. "It's important visitors take the time to understand the places [they] are frequenting and realise [they] are a guest in our home," says Estes. She recommends tourists avoid activities that are illegal – such as unmarked hikes and encroaching upon endangered sea life such as seals and turtles – as well as respect local laws, like using reef-safe sun cream.
To learn more about Hawai'i's complex history, a stop at 'Iolani Palace – the only true royal palace in the United States – is "a must" according to Estes. The opulent palace, the only structure in the world built in the "American Florentine" style, served as the official residence of Hawaiian monarchs starting in 1882.
"It's amazing that a place of this sophistication was built in Hawai'i in the 1800s," says Estes. "It had electricity before [the White House]. But [the magnitude of] what it means to Hawaiian people should not be understated. 'Iolani Palace is a symbol of Hawai'i being its own nation and where our last queen [Queen Liliʻuokalani] was imprisoned after the overthrow of the monarchy in 1893."
Visitors can walk through the first and second floors, which include reception rooms and bedrooms, as well as Queen Liliʻuokalani's Imprisonment Room, where she was held under house arrest for nearly eight months after her government was overthrown by the US.
Website: https://www.iolanipalace.org/
Address: 364 S King St, Honolulu, HI 96813
Phone: 1-808-522-0832
Instagram: @iolanipalacehi
AlamyThe former home of American tobacco heiress and Oahu socialite Doris Duke, Shangri La is 60 years' worth of Duke's art and furnishings spread across a 14,000 sq ft property comprised of a residence, playhouse, pool and outdoor terraces.
"The stunning, fantastical architecture and rooms – such as her mirrored bedroom – almost glisten more with the azure ocean below," says Estes.
Duke famously arrived in Honolulu in 1935 and befriended the storied Native Hawaiian Kahanamoku brothers, including Duke Kahanamoku, who is credited with popularising surfing. Doris Duke died in 1993 and in 2002, the estate – set on 4.9 oceanfront acres – opened as a public museum of design, furnishings and architecture inspired by Islamic culture.
Estes remarks that Shangri La, the largest private collection of Islamic art in the world, "is simply transporting".
Throughout the year, Shangri La presents works that actively explore Hawai'i, its complexities, nuances and perspectives from Kanaka Maoli (Native Hawaiian) artists including Paula Fuga, Dr Jamaica Heolimeleikalani Osorio, Inalihi Lasconia, 'Āina Paikai, and Brandy Nālani McDougall.
Website: https://www.shangrilahawaii.org/
Address: 4055 Pāpū Cir, Honolulu, HI 96816
Phone: 1-808-734-1941
Instagram: @hi_shangrila
Alamy3. Best view of the city: Nu'uanu Pali Lookout
Honolulu is famous for its panoramic city and ocean views atop Diamond Head Crater, but for the best view of east Honolulu that doesn't involve any hiking, Estes recommends the Nu'uanu Pali Lookout.
"It's a great spot that locals go on their way out of town to show visitors the east side of Oahu," says Estes of the observation point with spectacular views. "Many local people have frequented there since they were kids."
Located north-east of downtown Honolulu, the site features breathtaking views of the Ko'olau Mountains and east – often referred to as windward – side of Oahu and visitors should prepare for blustery winds.
The Pali Lookout also has an epic yet deadly history; in 1795, the now-peaceful site served as the battlegrounds where the monarch, warrior and diplomat King Kamehameha I won the Battle of Nu'uanu, a victory that united Oahu and sent hundreds of soldiers directly off the 305m high cliff to their death.
While the lookout point and winding Nu'uanu Pali Drive provide stunning views of the city, the site is also the origin for some of Oahu's most haunting tales, including the legend of Hawai'i's Night Marchers – phantom spirits of ancient Hawaiian warriors – who roam Oahu after dark and should never be looked in the eye or you will meet sudden death.
Website: dlnr.Hawai`i.gov/dsp/parks/oahu/nuuanu-pali-state-wayside/
Alamy4. Best place to give back to the land: He'eia Fishpond
Giving back to the land, or malama 'aina, is a cornerstone of Hawaiian culture. In Honolulu, you can do so at He'eia Fishpond.
Travel tip:
When you are greeted with a lei upon arrival or at a celebratory occasion during your time in Hawai'i, always remember to return the flowers back to the 'āina (land) or ocean and never throw your lei in the bin. "Returning flowers back to the land is a sign of respect," says Estes, adding that it is important to remove any string that may be keeping the lei together before scattering the flowers. Leis are so symbolic in Hawaiian culture, there is an entire celebratory holiday dedicated to them – Lei Day – that is celebrated each 1 May with parades, music, hula dancing, food and plenty of fresh lei.
He'eia Fishpond is one of the few remaining ancient Hawaiian fishponds; traditional aquaculture systems used by Native Hawaiians to sustainably herd fish using rocks in shallow tidal areas.
"He'eia is over 800 years old," says Estes. "It has been in use for generations and is a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the Hawaiian people."
Estes adds her friend, celebrated Native Hawaiian chef Mark "Gooch" Noguchi, always hosts a "work day" (community volunteer day) at the pond to celebrate his birthday while honouring his roots.
"In my opinion, it is one of the most special places to give back and connect with the land," says Estes of Chef Noguchi's work day, which includes tasks like moving rock and coral, filling buckets, hauling floating barges through the water, cutting and/or pulling out invasive mangrove, rubbish pickup and reconstruction of the kuapā (fishpond wall).
Walking tours or hands-on volunteering can be coordinated through Paepae o He'eia, a private non-profit dedicated to caring for He'eia Fishpond. Volunteers help restore and rehabilitate the ancient kuapā to preserve the integrity of the fishpond and support unique educational programmes that advance Native Hawaiian culture.
Website: https://paepaeoheeia.org/
Address: 46-077 'Ipuka Street, Kaneohe, HI 96744
Phone: 1-808-236-6178
Instagram: @paepaeoheeia
Alamy5. Best neighbourhood for getting a feel of the island: Chinatown
Honolulu's Chinatown, home to generations of Chinese immigrants, offers a look at the city beyond the quintessential tropical playground of Waikiki. Here you'll find everything from well-regarded local flower shops to restaurants, small businesses and Hawai'i's biggest corporations.
A business owner and artist herself, Estes understands the impact of supporting local businesses, and Chinatown hosts a few favourites, including Roberta Oaks, which Estes calls "a joy of sensory overload" for the discerning shopper seeking an authentic souvenir.
Roberta Oaks is a brand well-known for modern aloha wear, including the perfect aloha shirt, which is worn by nearly every local for business meetings, celebratory gatherings and galas.
"Even someone who thinks they do not love aloha shirts will certainly fall in love," says Estes of Oaks' designs, which are known for bright colour combinations, sharp fit and ode to vintage textiles.
Though it is Cindy's Lei Shoppe that Estes says is her favourite.
"Karen, the owner, has helped me with countless special orders and projects over the years, and even did the same for my Tūtū," says Estes of the generational lei shoppe, which specialises in hand-strung artisanal leis and flower crowns for all occasions.
On the outskirts of Chinatown is Foster Botanical Garden, a tranquil oasis in the heart of urban Honolulu that Estes calls "an amazing spot for a moment of peace" amid a work day or on the weekends.
Website: https://www.cindysleishoppe.com/
Address: 1034 Maunakea St, Honolulu, HI 96817
Phone: 1-808-536-6538
Instagram: @cindysleishoppe
Alamy6. Best for foodies: Kaka'ako and Ala Moana
The food scene in Hawai'i often reflects the flavours of the Asian and Pacific immigrants who began arriving in the 1800s. For upscale an dining experience, head to Kaka'ako, a 600-acre neighbourhood once home to King Kamehameha I, to try the Wagyu beef at Ya-Ya's Chophouse served with a side of Ya-Ya's signature "Fat Fried Rice", cooked in the beef's fat trimmings, or the Negitoro – finely chopped locally-caught ahi rolled into fresh sushi – at the oceanfront 53 By the Sea.
"If a cocktail is in order, Moku Kitchen makes a beautiful mai tai with lilikoi foam," says Estes of Chef Peter Merriman's Kaka'ako establishment located in SALT at Kaka'ako, a popular gathering spot that also features retail spaces.
Neighbouring Ala Moana – best known for Ala Moana Center, the largest open-air shopping centre in the world – is where you'll find some of the island's best poke, according to locals.
A fast casual meal, the poke bowl evolved from a technique used by ancient Hawaiian fisherman to preserve fish by massaging it with salt, combined with culinary traditions of Asian immigrants. Estes says that the best place to pick up an authentic bowl is not a fancy restaurant, but Foodland, a popular island grocery chain, which has a location at Ala Moana Center. Variations of the dish have increased – including toppings like fruit and salmon – but the classic bowl of fresh ahi (tuna), rice and marinade reigns supreme.
For dessert, head upstairs to Liliha Bakery's Ala Moana location for a doughnut made from poi, (mashed taro root), or Malasada, a fried doughnut with Portuguese originscoated with sugar and sometimes filled with haupia (coconut) cream.
BBC Travel's The SpeciaList is a series of guides to popular and emerging destinations around the world, as seen through the eyes of local experts and tastemakers.
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