Coronavirus: Southwold welcomes visitors after 'stay away' plea

At the height of the coronavirus lockdown, the well-to-do coastal town of Southwold asked visitors to stay away, adopting the slogan "please respect us - don't infect us". Now it wants them back. Are they listening?

With its traditional pier, golden sands and a promenade lined with candy-coloured beach huts, the Suffolk town offers much that is associated with a traditional British seaside resort.

"It reminds people of the holidays they had as children," said Nick Attfield, a director at Adnams, the brewery firm that is the town's major employer.

"It's that comfort, that nostalgia, and the feeling of space, and it's relatively unspoilt.

"If you live in a city centre, it's wonderful."

But it was just that attitude - that Southwold is the balm at the end of the A12 to ease the stress of London life - that led some in the town to pull up the drawbridge.

In March, just days before lockdown, the BBC visited Southwold and found its picturesque shopping streets and beach as busy as ever.

Many second home-owners, who occupy 60% of properties, had moved into their coastal retreat and decided to stay.

As the Easter holidays loomed, Southwold councillors took action with their own "stay at home" plea to urge second-homers and day-trippers to back off.

"A day at the seaside or a week at your holiday home are not essential travel," said the 12ft (3.6m) yellow banners around the town.

"Please respect us - don't infect us."

By the end of June, friendlier "thank you for staying away" banners appeared, asking visitors to help "rebuild our green and pleasant Southwold".

On the first week of the school holidays, Southwold is welcoming back day-trippers and other holidaymakers.

There are signs that things are getting people back to normal: the market is back on - although once instead of twice a week - and people are lined up outside reopened shops and cafes, which have adopted the required social-distancing measures.

Lynda Walker washes her hands before serving customers with ice-creams and sweets at Beaches and Cream. She can only allow three people in the shop at a time.

"We're looking forward to the summer more than usual because we've had a slow start to the season," she said.

"It's been steadily increasing and we had a lengthy queue at the weekend.

"People are social-distancing and are being sensible."

The neighbouring restaurant, Coasters, also run by the family, has been "incredibly busy" with people happy to wait for tables, she added.

When asked about the banners, her voice lost some of its cheer.

"I don't think those messages were written by business-owners because we love to see second home-owners.

"We want to see holidaymakers - they're our bread and butter and we are glad they are back."

Her views were echoed by Mr Attfield, who runs the property arm of Adnams, which has two hotel-restaurants, four pubs and its brewery and distillery in Southwold.

He agreed with the sentiment behind the signs at the height of a pandemic, but felt it could give the town an unwelcoming, unfriendly image.

"During the lockdown Southwold felt like it did about 40 years ago - the beach and the harbour were much quieter and there was something quite nice about that.

"I carried on working - we furloughed all but four of the 250 people in my division - and everyone I bumped into, I knew.

"But we need visitors to keep the economy going and we were worried that people would remember that message."

The Crown and The Swan, both in the town centre, are as fully booked with guests and diners as social-distancing measures allow, with two Adnams pubs also open and another selling takeaways only.

"Southwold has got that busy summer feeling back," he said.

"There were queues outside the coffee shops this morning, and at the weekend there were queues outside the fish and chip shops - that happens the moment the holidaymakers are back."

Among the families enjoying Southwold over the weekend were the Hepburns from London, who hired a self-catering cottage close to the beach.

"It's more accessible to us than Devon or Cornwall," said Kevin Hepburn, sitting with his children Sasha, 16, Felix, 14, and Poppy, nine.

"We've been on the beach, crabbing, we went on an explore of Suffolk yesterday but [have spent] the four days mainly just pottering around the town.

"There are a lot of things that are shut or have restrictions, but that's not really bothered us because we've mostly been outside," added Mr Hepburn.

Sasha agreed: "It's nice to stay outside, because we've been trapped inside for the last few months."

Also up from London, and very familiar with Southwold's charms, was Sarah Robin, 37, who was playing in the surf with her two children, aged three and five.

She is holidaying in the town for a week with her extended family, as she has done every year since she was three.

"We really enjoy the beach, the sea, the beautiful scenery, the harbour, all the lovely little shops," she said

"It's just a really nice place for the children.

"Most of what we'll do is outside, and we'll be sensible.

"It's a shame some of the pubs haven't got more space to open, but the town is doing quite well, all things considered."

At the town's market, which reopened last month, stallholder Darren Crane needs to recoup takings he lost during lockdown.

"It's the best market in the summer and the worst in the winter, as there is no-one here.

"It's been really hard, but hopefully we'll have a good summer as not so many people will go abroad this year.

"We haven't got many weeks left to make the money to get through the winter."

By the beach, those familiar summer sounds are back - the smack of flip-flops on the promenade, a little boy laughing as he reaches for a beach ball.

Windbreaks are unfurled, toes dipped in the sea and an appetising smell in the air says the chip shops are ready for the lunchtime rush.

Social distancing signs are everywhere and some people wear masks, but otherwise it looks like any day at the start of the holidays - including the age-old problem of finding a parking space.

Southwold is back in business.

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